"nFamousCJ - Keeper of Stringbean, Gengars and a Deezul" (nfamouscj)
07/17/2014 at 19:51 • Filed to: None
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"nFamousCJ - Keeper of Stringbean, Gengars and a Deezul" (nfamouscj)
07/17/2014 at 19:51 • Filed to: None | 0
| 4 |
the relays arrived as well as my inline fuses and a pack of 12v batteries to mock up and test (battery holders are in the mail). But using SPDT relays I have this setup here:
*Dont mind the odd colors, they came with pre wired harnesses.
Function: the demon eyes (LED 1 and 2 will feed off my side markers). Once on LED 1 (purple) will turn on automatically. If I flip the switch 1 turns off and 2 (green) turns on. Once the headlight turns on (relay 1) both demon eyes cut off.
My biggest question is can all of my grounds go to a common ground and 87 on R1, the cutoff- does it need to be grounded or just not hooked up anywhere?
Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull
> nFamousCJ - Keeper of Stringbean, Gengars and a Deezul
07/17/2014 at 20:02 |
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87 stays unconnected - do not ground. The relay coil on R1 may not be enough of a load in parallel to your headlights to keep from effectively shorting them out - you may need a resistor.
You *can* use a common ground if it's big enough.
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nFamousCJ - Keeper of Stringbean, Gengars and a Deezul
> Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull
07/17/2014 at 20:17 |
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what would you recommend as far as resistance ? The fuses are rated for 12v and the headlights I'll need to find the controller wire to my low beams (I'll likely have a full kill switch should I ever need my high beams for extended use but that'd be rare). It'll have to be pre-HID as those ballasts are going to kick up everything pretty hot.
Ok now I get what youre saying. The LEDs are pre-resisted and designed to run off 12v
As far as ground I'll have some heavy gauge and dump them at the chassis (can't get much of a bigger ground than that)
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Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull
> nFamousCJ - Keeper of Stringbean, Gengars and a Deezul
07/17/2014 at 20:42 |
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If you have a control wire to your low beams via a relay for them, then you *can* pirate it. If there's a direct feed wire, and you don't have any dead bulb balance sensing or anything, then you can pirate the main feed.
Main feed tapping:
Depending on what your low-beam wattage is, you will want to weigh the resistor against that. If, say, your low beams are 100W each, their current draw is up to ~8 amps each at 12V, and their resistance is 1.44 ohms. You want elements' ability to permit current to reflect what you need - if the relay only requires 100mA to stay open and has an impedance of... 4 ohms (asspulling all this, btw) then a 110 ohm resistor would be enough for no voltage loss on that circuit. (1.44x8 ~= 0.1x114: V=IR, Ohm's law) You don't actually need to design things to this level of detail - your car's voltage regulator and the other portions of your car can cope with varying loads in parallel with one another okay, and your headlights can operate a little reduced current/ your relay with a bit too much. However, I think you do need some resistance in the circuit and I don't know if the relay has enough.
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nFamousCJ - Keeper of Stringbean, Gengars and a Deezul
> Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull
07/17/2014 at 20:54 |
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I gotcha there. Luckily I don't have any canbus of bulb out sensors. Plus the HID kit is afterwards so the 12v coming I to the HID ballasts and controllers is more or less just to tell it on or off. The ballasts have their own dedicated 12v tap direct off the battery. Plus if it were running at a lower draw I believe the ballasts would make up for that as there's normally a charging period once they're first on.